Category: Climbs

November 4, 2014 / / Alpine Notes

“I can’t get all this stuff into my pack.” Whether the first day, the second, or the day after a ten day re-ration, the comment is inevitable. Over the duration…

September 1, 2014 / / Climbing

As Leonard Coyne quipped “You either got the spirit or you don’t. If you got the fu***g spirit you rock. And if you don’t… you’re a sport climber. “ I…

August 8, 2014 / / Alpine Notes

Bugaboo: an object of fear or alarm; a bogey. Upon seeing the gendarme high on the south ridge of the then unnamed Bugaboo Spire, Conrad Kain, during the first ascent…

July 22, 2014 / / Alpine Notes

As usual, I wished for rain.  It is always easier on the ego than feigning a case of the Sphinx Sphincter or Gannett Gut, things that are failings of the…

April 14, 2013 / / Climbs
April 9, 2013 / / Climbing

When I feed the rat it keeps wanting more, but funnily enough, when I don’t feed it the rat doesn’t die, it simply  goes dormant waiting for the next nibble.…

March 7, 2013 / / Climbing

“Wow, that was the best pitch yet” Liz exclaims as she mantles onto to the white, rounded sandstone at the top of a varnished finger crack.  “That crack was beautiful. …

May 21, 2012 / / Climbs

Miming is not something that I often do. In fact I find myself quite often mocking the mimers. The people who sit around and mime beta. Stem out left, good…

April 30, 2012 / / Climbing

April 19, 2012 Attentiveness mattered today.  The friable, incut edges of desert varnish beckon for my out stretched hand.  I reach cautiously upward, searching for the ones that look solid. …

February 22, 2012 / / Climbs

The early morning sun catches the northeast face of Dihedral Rock.  A prominent left facing corner flirts with the December sun until mid morning.  The belay though, is securely anchored…

December 25, 2011 / / Alpine Notes

“Well it looks like it is your lead” Matt says with a motion up toward the crack. “Uhh, you won the rochambeau fair and square.  We can just restack the…

October 24, 2011 / / Climbs

It was on Scott’s list.  It was his goal but I didn’t really mind doing it either.  Standing at the base looking up at the first pitch of beautiful, low…